There are several ways to reach the village of Carona, high above Lake Lugano in the Ticino.  One can take the cable car on the Monte San Salvatore and hike in the shade of a young beech forest, arriving in the hamlet of Ciona in less than an hour.  You will be tempted to dally at the gemutlich Osteria da Marianna before continuing on to Carona, only a few minutes away. 

 

We decided to take the bus from Lugano, a comfortable option. The church of San Giorgio, its elegant baroque tower visible from Ceresio on the other side of the lake, is our first stop.  On the inside of the church, the eight-sided dome is very impressive.  There is also an excellent copy of one of Michelangelo's paintings by Domenico Pezzi.  Almost organically connected to the church is the Loggia del Comune, the town hall, a two-story structure built in 1591/92 with arcades and windows adorned with frescos -- it harmonizes well with the Renaissance architecture of the church.  Wandering around Carona, one comes across small palazzi adorned with frescos, reliefs, and other ornamentation, a legacy of being the home town of several important families of artists and artisans.

 

Leaving Carona, we take the path to Morcote.  Our next goal is the botanical garden San Grato, 15 minutes from Carona.  For nature-lovers, a visit to this large (6 hectares) park is a must.  It boasts the largest collection of rhododendrons, azaleas, and conifers in the region.  In April and May, the place is ablaze with color.

 

Continuing southward, we walk through a mixed forest of chestnut, birch, acacia, and holly, all the while taking in the stunning panoramas of mountain peaks in the distance.  Suddenly, the green meadows of the Alpe Vicania appear like an apparition.  Clumps of broom give the meadow an exotic charm.  We then pass by the ruins of the Morcote castle, erected by the Milanese dukes in the 12th century.  The descent to the church of Santa Maria del Sasso above Morcote, involving hundreds of steps, puts our knees to the test.

 

Santa Maria del Sasso is an important Renaissance structure on a truly unique site.  Founded in the 13th century, the church was rebuilt in 1462 and in the years following, and in 1758 was remodeled in baroque style, with the axis turned 180 degrees.

 

We complete our tour in a far less strenuous way.  In Morcote we enjoy polenta and Merlot at a lakeside restaurant and make our way through the town's arcades and narrow passageways to browse the boutiques.  And then we board the ferry that will take us back to Lugano -- leaving behind in the twilight the church towers that showed us the way.