Exploring an abandoned hamlet high above the Rhine Valley (Translated
and adapted from an article by Rita Ziegler in NZZ Online, 8/8/02)
At
Maienfeld's train station, a 'Heidi' shuttle bus is waiting for passengers. No, we're not interested in visiting the
Heidi village where Johanna Spyri found inspiration for the Heidi story at the end of the 19th century. Rather, we're
in search of a more remote path that leads to the 1115 meter-high abandoned Walser settlement of Guscha. We pass the
Schloss Brandis and proceed through narrow streets to the Staedtliplatz. Dominated by the fresco-covered town hall,
the platz also boasts a couple of Heidi shops. As we reach the end of town, a yellow hiking trail sign points in the
direction of Steigwald-St. Luzisteig.
Initially, we walk through the vineyards,
soon after reaching the meadows. On our right hand we proceed up through the Steigwald and then to the Luzisteig saddle. In
Roman times, branching off in Maienfeld from this military road to Bregenz was a trail that led to Walensee and further on
to Zurich. To avoid the marshy flood plain of the Rhine in those times, merchants, shepherds, pilgrims and soldiers passed
this way on their way from southern Germany and the Vorarlberg. The church on the heights of the pass, dedicated to
St. Luzius, is certainly worth a visit. You'll also see the Swiss military's St. Luzisteig complex, dating from the
19th century.
Hiking in the direction of Guscha, we come upon a parking place in the woods. A narrow, winding
forestry road serves as a path up to the hamlet. The walk takes about three-quarters of an hour through cool woodland
and past the Guscha tower, dating from 1831. Suddenly, Guscha's five white houses appear, and a bit further up, on the
Bueel, the panorama is spectacular.
Already at the end of the 13th century, the Walsers left behind their
homes in the Upper Valais to settle here, high above the Rhine Valley. They chose the sunniest mountain overhangs, clearing
the land for pastures for their cattle. The Walser community included five settlements: Stuervis, Vatscherinerberg,
Rofels, Bovel, and Guscha. The settlers were largely self-sufficient, making a living from hunting, shepherding, and
some farming. They transported cattle, wood, and embroidered textiles down to the valley in exchange for supplies the
harsh land did not provide.
At one time Guscha numbered 170 souls. Centuries of famine, disease, and plundering
by rival armies took their toll on the Walser settlements, but the population was still 140 in 1742. De-population commenced
again with a vengeance during the 19th century, and the last family left Guscha behind in 1969.
Neglect and vandalism
threatened to expunge all vestiges of the hamlet, when, in 1974, concerned citizens in the valley formed the "Pro Guscha"
association, with the aim of preserving the five houses and the stalls. Volunteers proceeded to restore the buildings,
and there are plans to make an old sawmill functional, restore a fresco, and perhaps establish a Heimatmuseum.
To
raise money, 15 members of the association take turns as hosts for travelers wishing to overnight in one of Guscha's houses.
Simple lodging is provided from Easter to the beginning of November, as well as traditional Graubuenden foods and red
wine from Maienfeld's vineyards. Many visitors re-discover this vestige of the Walser migration on the last Sunday
of August, when the association sponsors a "Guschafest."
The hike from Maienfeld takes about two hours.
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