Hiking a "gem" of a valley in the Upper Valais (Translated and
adapted from an article by Christopher Wendt (NZZ-online August 2, 2001)
The Binntal in earlier times was far better known than it is today. Before the development of the Simplon pass in
the 17th century, the Binntal was a major transit point between Switzerland and Italy, going back to Roman times. The stone
bridge over the crystal-clear Binna River, hard by the village of Binn, is a successor to a Roman structure.
During
the 19th century, the Binntal became famous as one of the ten most important mineral sites in the world. Over 100 minerals
have been found in the valley, of which 25 were first discovered there and 17 have only been found there. (A museum
is devoted to this golden age of mineral extraction.)
Today, the Binntal is mainly noted for its unspoiled Alpine beauty. A walk up to the 3235 meter high Ofenhorn or
at least up to the Alpine hut near the Albrunpass reveals an unusual richness of rare and common mountain flowers, including
lilies, primulas, anemones, and enzians. In fact, much of the region is a nature preserve.
As Wendt walks above the
tree line, he marvels at the explosion of floral color on the meadows. It's time for a rest, cooling one's feet in the Binnbach,
with a view of the other side of the valley, including the old mineral pit at Lengenbach.
The last stretch is along the wildly-raging Binna, a scramble among boulders, and then again a bit of meadow. The
final stage has Wendt panting as he makes his way up a boulder-strewn landscape, grateful when the Binntal hut's flag comes
into view.
There, while enjoying some red wine, Trockenfleisch, Speck and Hobelkaese, he admires the view of the peaks
dotting the Bernese Oberland. Half-an-hour further up the path, to the pass, the view encompasses lakes and the Valais peaks,
many in Italian territory.
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