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The Val de Bagnes, extending along the Drance southeast
of Martigny in the Valais and home to about 6200 inhabitants, has always attracted hikers. Although its most famous village
is Verbier, a mega winter sports venue, the valley also boasts rugged terrain and seven spectacular glaciers. Currently an
area of 200 square kilometers is under consideration for potential national park status by Pro Natura.
In his 1889 edition of Switzerland; Handbook
for Travellers, Karl Baedeker hiked the length of the Val de Bagnes, marvelling at the glaciers and the scene of a devastating
inundation in 1818. The following is his account of his progress through the valley; ironically, in 1889, the tiny village
of Verbier did not even merit any mention! | Karl Baedeker's account: "We diverge here [Sembrancher] to the left from the St Bernard road, cross the Drance,
and follow the right bank of the Drance de Bagnes to Chable, the capital of the Val de Bagnes, picturesquely
situated.
Champsec
We now follow the left bank of the Drance,
pass Montagnier on the right bank and reach Versegere and Champsec (2966 ft.). Here we cross the Drance and
ascend to Lourier (3657 ft.; rustic inn) where the road ends. Between Lourtier and Mauvoisin, the Drance forms several falls;at
(1 hr.) Granges Neuves it receives a large contribution from the Glacier de Corbassiere. Then (20 min.) Fionney
(4910 ft.). Above Fionney, the valley becomes narrower and wilder. The bridle-path leads on the right bank of the Drance
by Bonatchesse to the (1.5 hr.) bridge of Mauvoison (5570 ft.), spanning the Drance, which flows 100 feet below. Wild scenery;
to the left the precipitous Mt. Pleureur (12,155 ft).
On the opposite bank,
20 min. higher, is the Hotel du Gietroz. About 1 mile to the south of the hotel, on the right side of the valley, is the Cascade
du Gietroz, the discharge of the Glacier de Gietroz, which has receded much of late. A good view of it may be obtained from
the Pierre a Vire (7823 ft.), ascended by the chapel behind the inn in 1.25 hr. In the winter of 1817-18 the fallen masses
of ice and snow so impeded the Drance that a considerable lake was formed above Mauvoisin. In June 1818, this
sheet of water burst its barriers and caused terrible devastation throughout the entire Val de Bagnes as far as Sembrancher
and Martigny. A similar catastrophe occurred in 1595.
The path again descends to the Drance
and intersects the former bed of the lake. It next leads to the ravine of Torrembey, and passes the chalets of (1.5 hr.) Petite
Chermontane (6290 ft.) and Vingthuit. By the (1.5 hr.) chalets of Boussine, we come in sight of the glaciers; to the east
the Glacier de Breney, which has much receded, is visible high above us.
The path then
crosses the moraines and the flat lower end of the Glacier du Mont Durand, and (3/4 hr.) reaches the Alp Grande Chermontane
(7313 ft.), grandly situated at the foot of the vast Glacier d’Otemma. The chalets here are usually occupied from the
middle of July to the middle of August only. Opposite, on the right side of the valley, is the finely situated Alp Chanrion
(7907 ft.; 1 hr. from Chermontane).
The head of the valley is encircled from west to east
by the Tour de Boussine, Grand Combin, Mont Avril, Mont Gele, Tourme de Boue, and the Pointe d’Otemma.
The route from Chermontane to the (1.5 hr.) Col de Fenetre (9140 ft.) ascends at first over pastures and then over loose stones
and moraine-deposits, skirting the Glacier de Fenetre. To the left rises the Mt. Gele (11,540 ft.); to the right the Mont
Avril (10,985 ft.), a splendid point of view (1.5 to 2 hours from the pass; no difficulty). The col commands a fine view of
the Val d’Ollomont and the Graian Alps.
A bridle-path descends past the chalets of
Balme and Vaux to (3 hrs.) Ollomont and Valpelline, from which a good road leads to Aosta."
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